Ramp Plan for Building a Micro Quarter Pipe
Let's Build a Micro-Ramp!
What is a micro-ramp? Two smaller than average-sized quarter pipes, built 2' high x 4' wide, facing each other inside a garage. That's the kind I've got, and I'm going to show you how to build your own set of micro-quarter pipes.
I'm going to make this as easy as possible for you to understand how to build using pictures, video, and my own experience. Learn where to find products, how much it will cost, and tips on how to make a great set of ramps.
NOTE: You can build yours any size you want, but just know that everything on the material list was meant for 2x4 foot quarters.
How to Build Your Own Micro Quarter Pipe Skate Ramp
Below, you'll find detailed information and instructions for each of these steps:
- Which supplies and tools you'll need for the job.
- How to plan the cuts for your quarter pipe sides and deck on just two pieces of plywood.
- How to draw and cut the transition onto your plywood.
- A list of all the materials you will need to measure and cut.
- How to frame the ramp.
- Information about coping—where to buy and how to cut, drill, and attach it.
- How to cover the ramp in layers of ply and masonite.
- Building steel thresholds.
Where to Buy Supplies
Wood and hardware you can find at most home improvement stores, like Home Depot. If you live in the States, you might find the steel there too.
If not, look for a metal supermarket in your area. They will have the coping and threshold material you need for this set of ramps.
This micro ramp should be built indoors where it's safe from the elements. But if it is going to be outside, you should protect it as best you can. Pressure treated lumber, some paint, and a tarp should help.
If you go that route, be careful. Working with treated lumber can be dangerous, because of the poisonous chemicals used to treat the wood.
Before You Start Building
Gather your tools.
Here's what you will need:
- Tape measure
- Pencil or pen
- Cordless Drill
- Phillips bit
- Assorted drill bits
- Circular saw
- Jig saw
Next, prepare your plywood.
The above drawing illustrates the quarter pipe sides and deck being cut from a single sheet of 3/4" plywood.
If you're building two of these micro-quarter pipes like I have, then you can get both deck pieces out of one piece of plywood.
You will need another sheet for your other two sides.
After all your side pieces are cut, what's left from your 3/4" plywood is a 2'x8' piece that could be used to build a skate ledge or grind box.
Before cutting anything though, get the hard part out of the way first by drawing the transition.
Drawing the Transition
There are different ways of doing this, but I've only ever done it one way. Let me explain to you how I've been taught to draw transition.
Grab an 8' long 2×4 and mark two lines.
3 inches from one end, mark a line. In the middle of this line, drill a 3/8" hole (approx. the diameter of a pencil).
Next measure out the distance of the transition radius, which is 5'-6" from the first line you just drew (5'9" from the same end). In the center of this second line is where you're going to place a screw, but don't go all the way through the 2×4 just yet.
Take two pieces of 3/4" plywood and lay them down next to each other so they are touching, like you see in the drawing below.
Using the 2×4 you made earlier, screw down the screw into the 3/4" plywood as shown above.
Place a pencil in the 3/8" hole you drilled and draw a radius. Using the 2×4 as a guide for your pencil until you can visibly see the transition radius. Next, measure and mark the height and length of the bottom.
Height: 1' 11 1/4"
Length: 5' 1 1/4"
Finally, draw the spot for the coping and bottom details as shown below.
Measure 2' from the back for the deck and 7/8" down for the coping.
NOTE: This is the measurement if you're using a two-inch diameter piece of coping. The drawing below shows a measurement of 1 1/4" but if you are building a ramp the same as mine, only cut down 7/8"
Cutting the Transition
Using a jigsaw and following the lines you drew, cut out your first transition piece. Keep things neat, because the deck for this quarter pipe will also come from this piece of 3/4" plywood.
Cut out your first transition piece and then use it as a template to trace onto the plywood and cut out the other side.
After the sides and deck are cut, you can begin cutting 2x4's, or continue with the remaining plywood pieces that will be used to cover the ramp.
Below is a list of everything you need to cut.
Material Cut List
Qty. Type Size
Qty. Type Size
11 • 2x4s • 3'10 1/2
2 • 3/4" Ply • (See Photo)
1 • Pipe • 4'
1 • 3/4" Ply • 2' x 4'
1 • Steel Plate • 4'
1 • 3/8" Ply • 3'9" x 4'0
1 • 3/8" Ply • 4'0 x 4'1"
1 • 1/4" Masonite • 3'6" x 4'
Framing the Ramp
After your plywood and lumber is cut, you can begin framing the ramp.
Start by attaching the bottom and top 2×4's.
Next make marks where the remaining pieces will go and then continue framing the deck and riding surface. Most 2×4's will be 8" on center.
See the drawing below for exceptions.
Where to Buy Steel Coping
To find the coping, look for a metal supermarket in your area or go online and search for anything steel related.
The coping size I choose for these ramps was 2" outside diameter with a 1/8" thick wall.
Cutting and Drilling
If you buy your steel at the right place, they will cut your steel for you.
All my steel pieces were cut for me. The only thing I had to do myself was drill holes in the coping and threshold.
My advice to you if you don't have the proper tools is to bring your steel pieces to a steel fabrication shop in your area. Or if you know someone who works in a place like that, have them help you out.
If you are going to attach the coping the way I've done it, there are going to be six holes in each piece of coping.
That is a lot of drilling.
To make this easier on myself, I gave my buddy the pieces so he could use the drill press at his work.
That doesn't mean you have to do the same. It's possible to use a cordless drill with a couple of good drill bits to get the job done.
Attaching the Coping
The way I'm attaching the coping is by using screws.
Start by marking the pipe about 3" in from each end and then once in the middle. Next, drill a 3/8" hole on the outside of the pipe and a 3/16" hole on the inside.
After your holes are drilled, place the coping in the spot you made earlier. Feed a screw through the outside 3/8" hole and place it into the 3/16" inner hole.
With a cordless drill, screw it down and go to the next hole.
If you're wondering about the holes interfering with your skating, don't worry. As long as the outside hole is no larger than 3/8", you will be fine.
Covering the Ramp
Start with the deck. Grab one of your 3/4" plywood pieces and screw it into the top of the ramp, spacing your screws about a foot apart.
Use a tape measure and mark where each screw will go. This way you keep it neat, and it looks better that way.
Now it's time to cover the riding surface. Grab your first sheet of 3/8" plywood. If you already cut this sheet, you should have two pieces — a first and second layer.
- First: 3'-10" x 4'
- Second: 4' x 4'-2"
Attaching these pieces of plywood to the ramp is no easy task.
That's why you should soak your plywood sheets with water before attempting to attach them to the ramp. We did that for these quarter pipes. It probably wasn't enough though, because it was still tough to bend the sheets.
Anyway, start at the top of the ramp and place the screws about a foot apart as you work your way to the bottom.
Be careful to hit the studs when you're attaching your sheets.
Next Layer & Masonite
After attaching the first piece of 3/8" plywood, move on to the next. Take the piece of 4'-0 x 4'-2 and place it over the top the previous layer.
Again, make sure to screw into the 2×4's and not on top other screws. Use a chalk line to mark where the studs are located.
With both pieces of the 3/8" sheets attached, grab your piece of 1/4" masonite, which will be your third and final layer.
- Third: 3'-6 by 4'-0
Mark out where each screw will be and then use a countersink bit or 3/8" drill bit to countersink each hole so the screws will be flush with the surface of the ramp.
Once the masonite is on, you can check the coping placement. If it's not to your liking, you can make some adjustments.
If built properly, you should have about 1' between the masonite and the ground. This is where you place the 4' x 1', 3/16" thick sheet metal.
Drill a 3/16" hole approximately 2 inches in from each end and one in the middle. After all the holes are drilled, you are going to want to countersink each by using a countersink bit.
You can also use a 3/8" drill bit. The purpose is to drill down just enough so the screw heads are flush. This way you won't snag a screw if you fall.
Skate & Create
Well, there you have it, a brand new micro-ramp!
Leave a comment below. Let me know of any issues you have, questions, or concerns. Good luck and happy building!
© 2014 Billy